Table of Contents
1 Understanding farmhouse ale
1.1 The world of yesterday
1.2 Kaupanger: First meeting with the tradition
2 History 35
3 Malt 47
3.1 Stjørdal: malt-making hot spot
3.2 The types of grain
3.3 Barley varieties
3.4 Maskin, portrait of a barley variety
3.5 How the grain was grown
3.6 Steeping and sprouting
3.7 Drying methods
3.7.1 Very pale, unsmoked malts
3.7.2 Lightly smoked, hot-dried malts
3.7.3 Heavily smoked malts
3.7.4 Caramel malts
3.7.5 Strong, uneven heat
3.7.6 Undried malts
4 Yeast 95
4.1 Voss: Discovering kveik
4.2 First lab analysis
4.3 Yeast, wild and domesticated
4.4 The yeast revolution
4.5 Yeast on the farms
4.6 Origins of the yeast
4.7 Yeast species
4.8 The family tree of yeast
4.9 Kveik, what we know
4.10 The non-kveik farmhouse yeasts
4.11 Bread yeast
4.12 Dying out
4.13 Kveik renaissance
4.14 The word “kveik”
5 Brewing process 155
5.1 Hornindal, Norway
5.2 Stone beer
5.3 Raw ale
5.4 Boiled ale
5.5 The mash boiled
5.6 Complex mashes
5.7 Keptinis
5.8 The great stove
5.9 Vsekhsvyatskoye, Russia
5.10 Understanding oven-based beers
5.11 The mash fermented
5.12 The evolution of brewing processes
6 Beer in the life on the farm 217
6.1 Harvest ale
6.2 Ritual beer
6.3 Superstition
6.4 Brewers or brewsters?
6.5 Equipment
6.6 Preparations
6.7 Grinding
6.8 Water
6.9 Carbonation
6.10 Oppskåke
6.11 Cellaring
6.12 Drinking vessels
6.13 Serving beer
6.14 Beer flaws
7 Spices and adjuncts 277
7.1 Hops
7.2 Juniper
7.3 Sweet gale
7.4 Grand wormwood
7.5 Caraway
7.6 St John's Wort
7.7 Bitter orange peel
7.8 Yarrow
7.9 Tansy
7.10 Bay laurel
7.11 Wild rosemary
7.12 Heather
7.13 Others
7.14 Adjuncts
7.14.1 Potatoes
7.14.2 Bran
7.14.3 Carrots
7.14.4 Peas
7.14.5 Honey
7.14.6 Other adjuncts
7.15 Filter materials
7.15.1 Straw
7.15.2 Alder sticks
7.15.3 Other
8 The drink problem
8.1 Small beer
8.2 Rostdrikke
8.3 Kvass
8.4 Birch sap beer
8.5 Juniper berry beer
8.6 Mead
8.7 Sugar beer
9 Brewing like a farmer
9.1 Carbonation
9.2 Working with kveik
9.3 Working with farmhouse yeast
9.4 Brewing with juniper
9.5 Making your own malts
10 Styles and how to brew them
10.1 What is farmhouse ale?
10.2 Recipes
10.3 Raw ales
10.3.1 Brewing raw ales
10.3.2 Kornøl
10.3.3 Sahti
10.3.4 Island koduõlu
10.3.5 Kaimiškas
10.3.6 Danish landøl
10.4 Dark, smoky ales
10.4.1 Stjørdalsøl
10.4.2 Gotlandsdricke
10.4.3 Landøl from south Funen
10.5 Brown boiled beers
10.5.1 Heimabrygg
10.5.2 Telemark, Norway
10.5.3 Hallingdal
10.5.4 Swedish farmhouse ale: Öxabäck
10.6 Oven beers
10.6.1 Seto koduõlu
10.6.2 Oven-mashed Russian farmhouse ale
10.6.3 Chuvashian farmhouse ale
10.6.4 Sur
10.6.5 Keptinis
10.7 Fermented mash
10.7.1 Luumäki-style
10.7.2 Vanylven-style
10.8 Stone beer
10.9 Other regions
10.9.1 Corn ale
10.9.2 English farmhouse ale
10.9.3 Welsh farmhouse ale
10.9.4 Westphalian farmhouse ale
10.9.5 Aludi
10.9.6 Oat beer
11 Today and tomorrow
11.1 Baltic time capsule
11.2 The Baltics today
11.3 Status in the west
11.4 Farmhouse ale in the 21st century
11.5 Into the future
12 Acknowledgements
13 Bibliography
13.1 Archive sources
13.2 The database
13.3 Published sources
13.4 Unpublished sources
13.5 Interview sources
Lars Marius Garshol is a Norwegian software engineer that travels the world to learn more about beer. Garshol spent five years researching various aspects of brewing at remote farmhouses throughout Scandinavia and the Baltic countries. He is the author of LarsBlog, a blog devoted to sharing his discoveries and travels as he researches the lost art of brewing in northern Europe, Historical Brewing Techniques: The Lost Art of Farmhouse Brewing, and a book on Lithuanian beer. He lives with his wife and children in Rælingen, Norway.
Until six or seven years ago, the borders of European brewing were
tidy, well-understood, and well-documented—or so we
English-speakers thought. That was when Lars Marius Garshol started
publishing incredible stories about farmhouse brewing traditions in
Eastern Europe and Scandinavia. Suddenly the brewing world seemed a
lot bigger than anyone imagined. It's not an exaggeration to say
that Historical Brewing Techniques is the most important book on
brewing in at least twenty years.
*Jeff Alworth, author of The Beer Bible*
Brilliantly written! Lars provides a wealth of technical and
historical knowledge to his readers in Historical Brewing
Techniques. His writing is fascinating and evocative—the reader
can't help but feel they are traveling through Scandinavia and
eastern Europe alongside him. This book is a must read for anyone
passionate about the histories and techniques of true farmhouse
beer making.
*Averie Swanson, Founder and Beermaker, Keeping Together*
“Farmhouse ale” is a term used by many yet understood by few. Lars
Garshol is one who gets it, and he shares his wealth of knowledge
in this book. It's not a beer style guide, but rather a fascinating
look into the myriad ways beer was made prior to industrialization.
Compelling read for brewers and beer aficionados alike.
*Stephen Beaumont, co-author of The World Atlas of Beer and author
of Will Travel for Beer*
Imagine brewing as a mansion of known knowledge, ingredients,
recipes, and equipment living beneath a single shared roof. With
Historical Brewing Techniques, Lars Marius Garshol has rediscovered
a secret garden, revealing hidden-in-plain-sight farmhouse yeast
strains and revolutionary brewing and fermentation approaches that
will require brewers and drinkers to rethink beer's very
foundation.
*Joshua M Bernstein, author of The Complete Beer Course and Drink
Better Beer*
It's rare that a new book on beer catches my attention. Historical
Brewing Techniques reveals valuable knowledge, perspectives,
techniques, and beer culture from a time and place almost
forgotten. It's as though these isolated farms have incubated their
brewing heritage and now Garshol reveals their secrets to us in an
entertaining, exciting, and enlightening fashion. The fun part is
exploring these unique techniques and considering how they fit into
your brewing world. There's enough to engage any brewer who loves
to explore unheard of possibilities.
*Charlie Papazian, author of The Complete Joy of Homebrewing*
Lars Garshol has brought our prehistoric “Nordic grog” to life in
his new book, which is bubbling up and brimming over with close
observation and practical advice about wild yeasts, herbs,
household brewing, and much, much more. It's a delightful and
informative paean to historic Scandinavian and Baltic brews,
benefiting the serious homebrewer and enthusiastic beer connoisseur
alike.
*Patrick E McGovern, author of Ancient Brews Rediscovered and
Re-created and Uncorking the Past: The Quest for Wine, Beer, and
Other Alcoholic Beverages*
Lars Marius Garshol has written the definitive work on kveik and
traditional eastern European farmhouse brewing. He has witnessed
and laboriously documented yeasts and traditions to help preserve
and spread this wondrous art. Whether discussing ingredients,
malting techniques, the practical nature of brewing on a working
farm, or the rituals and superstitions of farmhouse brewers, this
book gives a detailed explanation of all aspects of this unique and
ancient practice. I cannot recommend this book enough.
*Matthew Humbard, Head Brewer/Lead Scientist, Patent Brewing
Company and Patent Laboratories*
An eye-opening excursion into beer's European roots, and an
astonishing work of historical and cultural research. Thanks to
Lars Garshol, I'll never see beer, farmhouse or otherwise, the same
way again.
*Maureen Ogle, author of Ambitious Brew: A History of American
Beer*
People have brewed since the dawn of civilization, largely with
techniques that never survived into archeological findings or
historical documents. Instead, these techniques have been stored in
the folk wisdom of farmhouse brewers, and Historical Brewing
Techniques is an outstanding documentation of this forgotten craft.
Lars Marius Garshol has filled an enormous gap of brewing knowledge
with years of extensive data collection in the Nordic and Baltic
countries, and Russia.
*Mika Laitinen, author of Viking Age Brew: The Craft of Brewing
Sahti Farmhouse Ale*
Before reading Historical Brewing Techniques, Lars had already
inspired my brewing through his blog. Initially I brewed beers with
the traditional Norwegian trio of smoked malt, juniper infusion,
and kviek. Lars' detailed and perceptive accounts have since led me
to apply the ingredients and techniques to New World styles. It is
invaluable to have his years of research and interviews distilled
into this insightful and encyclopedic tome.
*Michael Tonsmeire, Co-Founder of Sapwood Cellars and author of
American Sour Beers*
Wow! This book shows us how much we have forgotten and reminds us
there is so much still to discover. Many of these old brewing
methods were on the brink of extinction, but now I find I am super
excited to try to make a keptinis! The brewing methods preserved in
northern and eastern Europe provide insight into other countries'
beer making origins as well. As a Belgian, I think this book sheds
light on how Waghebaert, Cuyte, zwert bier, and roetbier were made.
I'm inspired now to dig out the documents for those beers and try
again. What a gift! Thank you, Lars.
*Peter Bouckaert, Founder and Brewmaster, Purpose Brewing and
Cellars, and co-author of Wood and Beer: A Brewer’s Guide*
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