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The Rise and Fall of Art Needlework
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Table of Contents

Chapter 1 The Commercialisation of Art Embroidery 1; Embroidery and the art establishment - 2; Pecuniary employment for women - 10; The commodification of embroidery - 13; Chapter 2 The Genesis of Art Embroidery 21; Medievalism revived - 22; Pugin and the gothic style - 23; On form and function of design - 27; On Indian art - 30; Religion, art and patriarchal control - 33; On work - 38; Chapter 3 History and Subsistence 44; A brief history - medievalism to 19th century working practices - 44; Suitable employment for women - 46; Sweated labour and the need for radical change - 49; Beyond the sweated trades - 55; Philanthropy as a social tool - 57; Berlin wool houses, fancy repositories and exhibitions - 60; Chapter 4 Morris & Co. - The Family Firm 65; Art and commerce - 66; Developing sales - 71; Socialism versus capitalism and the democratisation of art - 79; The embroidery department - 81; Chapter 5 The Leek Embroidery Society 88; Leek, its attributes and resources - 89; Thomas Wardle, entrepreneurship and networking - 91; Elizabeth Wardle and the formation of the embroidery society - 95; The Leek Embroidery Society and marketing concepts - 98; The Leek embroidery school - 100; Conflicts - commerce versus art - 103; The Royal School of Art Needlework and its association with other schools - 106. Chapter 6 Selling the Orient:; Department Stores and the Rise of Liberty 113; Commodity fetishisms and bi-lateral trading routes - 114; Building a commercial image: the rise of Liberty - 123; Marketing embroideries: the occident and the orient - 126; The costumes department - 131; Zola, the Bon Marche and other department stores - 135; Chapter 7 The Rise and Fall of Art Needlework 144; Ruskin and Morris' theoretical beliefs - 145; The craftsman ideal in Britain - 152; The craftsman ideal in America - 154; The demise of Art Needlework - 158; Plates 167; Appendices 173; Bibliography 179; Index 191.

About the Author

Linda Cluckie is an Associate Lecturer at Sheffield Hallam University in Business Enterprise History and Class Gender and Nation.

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