Introduction 6
Tools and materials 8
All about layering 14
Hand stitch embellishment 36
Inspiration and Design 44
Finding ideas 46
Textile art 64
Creating with colour 76
Pushing the Boundaries 84
Trapunto 86
Trapunto carving 92
Step-by-step project
Book stacks 98
Sculptural book stacks 102
Step-by-step project
Twisted spirals 110
Twisted blooms and buds 116
Step-by-step project
Puffs 122
Flower puffs 126
Step-by-step project
Three-dimensional appliqué 84
Handbag 134
Step-by-step project
Brooch 138
Step-by-step project
Scarf 140
Step-by-step project
Going further 142
Index 144
Ann lives and works in Hertfordshire, and has exhibited widely in the UK, America and Canada. She trained in Canada, and also at Goldsmith’s College, London. She has a Fine Art degree, and with her love of colour and design, she has developed unusual and exciting techniques in her current textile art work. Ann now devotes her time to mentoring and making, developing her work for exhibitions and galleries. She will be a featured artist in the Knitting and Stitching Show 2017.
At first sight the techniques described here seem to target machine
and hand sewers. But delve deeper and you may see clear potential
for fabric and yarn to be dyed or woven specifically to include in
art pieces, interior items or costume using these methods. The
layering of colour and pattern, also known as reverse applique,
involves stacking cloth, stitching to form a design, then slashing
or cutting away to expose cloth beneath. Starting with the basic
technique to create a small sample, the author introduces ways
of producing more complex effects, then shows how these might be
combined and embellished: it is the nuances of how layers are
prepared, treated and finished that create the lively effects
described here. A section on finding and developing design ideas
includes some refreshing tips and widely applicable advice on
scaling up and sampling, then finishing and care of work. Not a
book for everyone, but if you have come to dye or weave from other
textile crafts, this may well inspire you to look again at how your
knowledge of a variety of textile skil ls may be combined and
explored further.
*Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers*
May/June 2018 Ann Small's imaginative use of cutting and
manipulating techniques and her layering and colouring tricks make
this your go-to guide for bringing form and texture to your fabric
artwork. This book is a rich resource and reference for textile
artists seeking new ideas and who want to experiment with reverse
appliqué and related techniques such as layering, trapunto, stacks,
puffs, and fabric manipulation.
*Be Creative With Workbox*
This inspiring book forms part of the popular and beautifully
photographed series of books under the label of ‘The Textile
Artist’, published by Search Press. The series is aimed at the more
creative stitcher and budding textile artists. The book is
predominantly a technique guide but it does include a number of
interesting projects that you can attempt to try out what you have
learnt and consolidate the techniques...The book is an excellent
resource for a creative stitcher who is looking for something a bit
different to take into their stitching and is a great reference on
using these innovative techniques.
*Sewing Directory*
Layer stacks of fabric, and then slash and decorate them for a
richly textured look. I thought that I had done (or at least
seen) most forms of fabric manipulation but this is new to me and
looks most impressive. It is a good way of making the most of
all sort of leftovers and doing a lot with a little, turning the
ordinary into something new and exciting. Most of the tools
needed are the same as those required for ordinary sewing, and if
you sew you will already own stacks of fabrics. This is a
book aimed squarely at the experienced needlecrafter who is up for
something fresh and challenging and who already has the basics
under their belt. There are seven step-by-step projects
in here, and plenty of preliminary information to get you
started. This large format book also has lots of lush
good-sized photographs to get the creative juices flowing.
All the staged photographs are a decent size too which is essential
for such an unfamiliar craft, where the samples have so much
detail. After the section on tools and materials there are
several chapters showing how to layer the fabric and grids for the
slashing part. Each chapter has ample written instructions
and enough photographs and diagrams, including some for simple
embroidery stitches. After this comes a section on
inspiration and design, focussing on ideas, keeping a sketchbook
and stylizing the real world into workable drawings. This is
very helpful, showing the progression from inspiration (eg a field
of lavender) through to a painting, a simplified drawing, a design
and finally the finished piece. The next section,
entitled Pushing The Boundaries looks at “advanced techniques” and
contains four staged projects. The final section on 3D
appliqué has three projects, and each project is designed to get
you working on a particular type of layering technique.
Fabric puffs, trapunto, booklike stacks, twisted spirals of cloth
and more look amazingly complicated until they are explained and
you work through the stages. It is all great fun for
needlecrafters and something a bit different. As a maker of
wearable art I was pleased to see how many projects are for
wearable items as opposed to the usual pictures and cushions.
One for the keeper shelf.
*Myshelf.com*
Ann Small has taken the basic layering-and slashing technique to a
new level. With a fabulous eye for colour, clever placement of
fabric layers, and imaginative cutting an manipulation, Ann has
created fantastic visual and textural effects. The reader is guided
through choosing materials and the
basic methods, finding and recording ideas, and interpreting
designs into cloth and thread. Through a wide range of beautifully
illustrated examples, Ann explains her creative process – an
excellent resource for informing your own work. For those who want
to take things even further, there’s also a chapter on advanced
techniques. If this is a method you’d like to explore, this
book
would be an invaluable reference.
*The Quilter*
What a great book! Lovely to see a book which covers in detail a
single subject and shows you several techniques within that sphere
that you can try and master. So many books glaze over a variety of
techniques trying to cover too much thinly, thereby not doing real
justice to each skill set. Here you can move through layering and
cutting to achieve quite different effects.
A super book and well worth buying to see how to achieve some of
the effects Id only seen at the wonderful shows ( NEC/Harrogate
etc)
I once saw an amazing ammonite configuration and now understand how
it can be done!
Project pieces explained clearly and the photographs clarify the
construction and methods completely.
A great buy.
*Customer Review*
This inspirational publication takes you from your first steps to
larger projects in clear easy stages. It covers materials needed
and suggestions as to where to find inspiration, whilst leaving
scope for your own creations. As always with Search Press it ie
excellent value for money.
*Customer Review*
This book contains lots of hints and tips for those new to textile
work, but it is also an inspirational book that will delight all
textile artists, including experienced artists. The beautiful
photographs aid the clear instructions throughout and will help to
develop knowledge and skills. I particularly like the section that
shows you how to adapt a working design by using grids and how to
scale up your own design ideas.
*Customer Review*
As I was turning pages of the Book Stacks chapter, a technique
developed by Ann Small, I was tingling with excitement. This is
what I was looking for ages. At last, I have found a technique, I
definitely shall use in some of my future work.
Layering with colour chapter opened my eyes to the possibilities of
what could be achieved with just one simple technique of slashing
to reveal the layers of lush colours. Ann Small definitely has a
magical relationship with colour. The layering techniques and
optical mixing are like pointillist painter’s palette.
Ann Small shows her journey through the inspiration to the finish
piece, including her tips and ‘breaking the rules’ notes are like
having a chat with an old friend.
If you want a book with a pattern and a ‘step by step instructions’
of how to recreate someone else’s ideas – this book is not for you.
This book is more like a standing back and encouraging you to
explore ‘tutor’. Ann Small included questions and a list of
approaches to encourage critical thinking about one’s work and ways
to move forwards. It is bursting with ideas, lush colours and
creativity. It is an absolute ‘must have’ to any budding textile
artist, student or like me, person who just want to play and have
fun with textiles.
Get it - You won’t regret it. And most of all – get creative and in
Ann own words – ‘..play with fabrics and paint’.
*Customer Review*
The photography in Layered Cloth: The Art of Fabric Manipulation
shows the woven threads of the worked fabric so clearly that it
provides extra guidance for the reader. Having never even
considered attempting this kind of sewing, I gladly stared at the
images and made plans in my mind of what I might try with the stash
of fabric I have acquired over the years. And I feel almost
confident in my limited abilities because of the tone of Ann’s
words, which is such a comfort to a sewing novice like me. The
focus is firmly on techniques, rather than complete projects, which
I think is a huge plus point. Learning by experimenting is one of
the keys to finding your own style, and this book is superb in
providing ideas and new avenues of possibilities of fabric and its
purpose, structure, and texture. This wouldn't have been the kind
of book that I’d have thought about buying. That I was fortunate
enough to receive a copy to review is beyond a delight because,
now, I truly believe that I can create unique fabric pieces, with
her reassuring words beside me.
*Customer Review*
Love this book! Beautiful pictures to show how the work is achieved
with various techniques. Can not wait to give some of the projects
ago!
*Customer Review*
Ann Small is an experienced textile artist and tutor and in this
new title in ‘The Textile Artist’ series, she explores the methods
used to transform cloth, where coloured fabrics are stacked, sewn
and cut to produce an exciting tactile surface. By working
through the book, following Ann’s comprehensive instructions and
suggestions, a personal portfolio of samples and designs can be
created. There are seven beautiful step-by-step projects for
the reader to work, covering all the techniques used, to add depth
and vibrancy. Richly illustrated in colour throughout this is
a must-have book for anyone wishing to explore new ways to develop
their own work creatively thereby taking it to a higher
level. Highly recommended.
*East Kent Embroiderers Guild*
Ann Small is one of my favourite textile artists and, judging from
the popularity of her articles in Workshop on the Web, she is one
of yours as well. You won’t be disappointed in this book. As the
title suggests, layering fabric and cutting it back to reveal the
treasures beneath are at the heart of this book. But there is so
much more. There is a very informative section on the general topic
of layering and Ann shows in clear stages the technique for what I
call ‘faux chenille’, where you layer fabrics, stitch straight
lines and then cut to the base fabric. Variations of this
demonstrate surprisingly different effects and, together with
stitching, form a substantial section of the book. Ideas, from
inspiration, sketchbook and transfers to fabric, form the next
section and there are some great ideas there. The book sings with
colour from beginning to end and there is a chapter on working with
colour which extends into its use with stitched pieces. The
advanced techniques in the exciting ‘Pushing the Boundaries’
section include chunky trapunto and carved columns; much of the
remainder of the book continues the theme of ‘carved from cloth’.
This is a great book; it makes you want to ‘have a go’, always an
excellent sign.
*Workshop on the Web*
Astounded by this book. Not sure where to start. From cover to
finish it is simply marvellous. I find everything about it sheer
joy. It defied my expectations completely. The level of work is
amazing and not one page deviates from the high level Ann achieves.
The work is rich, sumptuous and unusual. As a colourist, Ann is
simply magnificent and like me, you will probably flick through
this book just for the colours. The contents page does not conjure
up what is in store: Inspiration and Design, Pushing The
Boundaries, Three-Dimensional Applique, but the actual work will
leave you gasping for breath. It is stunning. Layer, cut, fold
back, stitch, insertions, edging, bindings, working with grids and
so much more. You'll see the methods, sources of inspiration, how
to finish work. There are step-by-step projects so that you can
familiarise yourself with the process. The trapunto section is
wonderful and the book stacks and puffs work is equally engaging. I
cannot recommend this book enough, it gives so much. I wish it were
a hardback and I am certain that the publisher will be re-printing
this within 6 months because everyone must have it. The Textile
Artist series is a good series of books, this is the strongest
title yet, it deserves a fanfare, it really is in a class all of
its own. For textile and colour lovers everywhere. Recommendation?
Absolutely, I’m telling you this is a MUST-HAVE.
*Yarnsandfabrics.co.uk*
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